Showing posts with label Agates. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Agates. Show all posts

Thursday, September 26, 2013

Exploring the Oregon Coast (again)


Last visit: Washington State (write up in progress).

Last Oregon visits (2010).

Having finished all the visiting I wanted to do this summer in Washington State, I headed south… with the hope of enjoying the Pacific Coast and doing some beachcombing, visiting old friends, and working my way back to my winter home in Quartzsite, AZ by mid-October, over 1,300 miles.  September is a very tight budget month for me, with quarterly auto insurance due along with my annual vehicle tabs due. So this will be a challenge.  So many miles to go, so little money.  IMGA0088 September 13

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After leaving Jerry and Nelda in Vancouver, WA, I rested at a casino parking lot and waited for the fog to clear before going on to Lincoln City, OR, taking Rt. 18 out of Portland to Lincoln City. I planned to spend a few lazy days beachcombing the OR coast and then go a little farther south and explore some more, maybe kayak, or even take a giant dune buggy ride in Florence. (I ended up not doing this due to finances and the fact that there were two huge bus loads of old people in the Dune Buggy parking lot when I drove by.)

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I continued on to explore the coast south of Bandon OR and then on to Gold Beach, OR stopping at Cape Blanco State Park

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Scared myself to death on a few of the overlooks at Cape Blanco State Park. I couldn't even go within 10' of the edge of one of them... http://goo.gl/maps/pLuKP.  The reason there isn’t anything growing here, is that there is nothing under that dirt but air…  I don’t know what is holding the earth up there.  I made a very wide berth around the dirt area, staying on the plants.  It gave me the willies (you get images of the Roadrunner and Willey Coyote, getting to the edge of a cliff and then dropping through to go splat on the ground several hundred feet below).  I’ve had the willies every since this stop… and even going across bridges, which never bothered me before.  What’s up with that?  Normally, on my adventures I become less fearful of things, not more fearful.  And the Tsunami Hazard Zone signs all over the coast.  Geez!!!  I’m suppose to be relaxing.

A lot of Oregon’s parks and trails are kind of hidden away... you have to just go off the main road and hunt around. That's half the fun. 

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Some of them are NOT safe places for children to run and play.  There are very high steep cliffs which drop-off of hundreds of feet straight down.  This trail went though vegetation that was higher than my shoulder.

September 14

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This is an Ancient Spruce Stump. I’d never heard of these before, just stumbled upon on while beachcombing at Devil’s Punchbowl (I guess I didn’t see the “Punchbowl” this time), and I’d say the stumps are well worth going out of the way to see. The root mass was one of many buried beneath the beaches along the Oregon Coast between Newport and Neskowin.  It once supported a spruce tree, which was buried when the land suddenly dropped into the sea.  It remained preserved beneath the sand for 4,100 years before surfacing and breaking free in 1998.  Violent winter storms washed another like it into the mouth of Spencer Creek in 1999.  I didn’t measure the distance across from side to side, but I’d bet it’s 20-30’.

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Here’s the one in Spencer Creek at Beverly Beach Campground.

Beachcombing finally yielded some nice agates, one or two exceptional ones. My work here is done. Below was the first agate I found here, and the nicest one.   Going farther south tomorrow.Swankie Wheels's photo. 
Working my way down the coast. Just passed this point in Newport - http://goo.gl/maps/A7T7W . Nice crowded full campground there called Devil's Lake Campground... and it has Yurts.

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The Yurts at Beverly Beach State Park Campground cost $40 a night to rent. Just a regular campground otherwise.  10 yurts, only ONE pet friendly. Looked to me a great place for a family reunion. By the way, the campground was full this weekend. It's right on 101 and a very busy strip of 101. You can walk anywhere in Newport that you need to go.

The day is a little more "remarkable" - at least I found some interesting stuff. Photo

Also got ol’ SwankieWheels stuck in the sand on the beach. As I got ready to leave, I backed up and then a car went behind me and I had to stop for him and promptly sunk into that wet spot. Someone was kind enough to pull me back onto firmer sand and I finally got back up the hill. People are really dumb about driving onto the beaches, including me (just because it is legal and allowed, doesn’t mean you should do it)..
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Well, another wonderful afternoon of beachcombing and finding a lot of agates. A young couple came along and hogged in on my agate-hunting spot so I called it a day. In the future, I'm not telling anyone what I am doing on the beach. As I was leaving, I looked up on the cliff and wasn't sure what I was seeing, I thought it was a person, but wondered how he would have gotten to where he was and then I realized it was the largest Great Blue Heron I had ever seen. Darn it, I hadn't taken my camera to the beach today.

Nelda Lee and Jerry Jerald Cox, caught up with me that night in Newport, OR. We had a nice visit and breakfast together in the morning (boy can that Nelda cook) before heading off in different directions. The sun was coming out from behind the grey clouds, finally.

September 17

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I returned to Devils' Punchbowl again (really huge flight of stairs to go down to beach) to hopefully find some more agates at low tide – I think this is my favorite spot.  I have an addiction… to rocks (like that’s a secret).  I am stranded here for two more days until “payday.”

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Sure is a very very popular surfboarding spot, and yes, they haul their boards up and down those stairs, sometimes running.  Ughhhh!

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In the cliffs at Devils’ Punch Bowl, there are lots of shell fossils.  Was fun to look at all of them. Even found some in the sand that had been washed out of the cliffs.

Talked to the people driving this ambulance the other day, saw them again another day but haven't been able to get a photo until I saw them in an intersection and got this shot.

Swankie Wheels's photo. 
They had scraped off all the decals. They had painted the light lenses they didn't need, disconnecting those wires, and they talked to me about how well insulated and comfy it was inside. Someone in the Vandwellers Facebook group recently bought an ambulance, and I thought I’d try and ask to look inside, but didn’t get a chance. These folk really love their ambulance. An older couple (old like me!). You can see below the front light is painted white.

Swankie Wheels's photo.

September 18

Had income idea, of putting together a set of southwest flora and fauna sketches to be used in a set of gift cards. If you were to buy a set of cards, what 6 subjects would you like to see in the set?  Just priced some at a Farmers’ Market and they were selling for $3 each, and 2 for $5.  They were reprints, not originals.  What do you think such cards should sell for???  Would appreciate any ideas or suggestions.

Oh my, another senior moment. I screwed up again. When I tried for my CDL(Commercial Drivers’ License) in Feb, I was required to give up my SD DL and get an Arizona one so I could train on the tour bus in AZ. I didn't get the job, but now don't have my South Dakota Drivers License anymore, so when I went online to renew my tabs I realized I can't do it without the SD DL???? Now what, They expire the end of September. I planned to pay for them today which would give me enough time to receive them in the mail before the end of the month.

Not to worry, my wonderful mail service handled this for me and a few days later my tabs arrived at my friends house in CA, where I am headed next.  If you need good mail service and someone to go to bat for you while you meander around the country, you could not do better than using My Dakota Address run by a wonderful lady named Terri. I highly recommend this service. (Now I have to schedule a visit back home to South Dakota to get my SD DL again.)

September 19

Continuing down the coast I came to a Wayside at Shore Acres State Park overlooking Shell Island on the Simpson’s Reef, in the Cape Arago area.  Wow, what a bunch of noise.  Seals galore.

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This is the largest marine mammal haulout site on the Oregon coast.  Simpson Reef hosts four pinniped species including harbor seal, northern elephant seal, California sea lion, and Steller sea lion. There is also a very large population of nesting seabirds, larger than Washington and California combined.

And Oregon lighthouses (click on photos for more information on each)…
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I'm about OR-coasted-out... a little more time in the morning beachcombing... found another agate spot. They aren't big agates, but they are pretty.

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Today, I also found the Wizard's Hat, at Bandon OR, walked to it, touched it, photographed it, and then drug my butt back up 1,000 steps to my van.

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(Well I don’t know how many steps it really was, but am betting if my friend, Betsy had been with me, she could have told me… she counts everything).

Woke early, after sleeping beside the road, and began driving... then I noticed the full moon setting. The Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area is fascinating... especially if you happen to be into ATVs. What a great area. Lots and lots of camping.  Even has a Horse Camp there.Photo: Woke early, after sleeping beside the road, and began driving... when I noticed the full moon setting.  I was in this area... http://goo.gl/maps/sDu3w .   The Oregon Dunes area is fascinating... especially if you happen to be into ATVs.  What a great area.  Lots and lots of camping.

Drove on to Gold Beach, OR.  Found interesting things there, including a “feral cat” town on the North Jetty.

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I didn’t understand what it was at first, but after awhile I began to notice the cats.  Pretty neat??? 

On the South Jetty I noticed people walking in the rocks at low tide and asked what they were looking for.  A guy showed me his agates, not nice and rounded and polished, but still agate material.  I had found ONE like that, but never found another.  Spent the night of 21st on a side street and next morning walked the beach south of the South Jetty.  I think this would be a good spot to beachcomb at low tide, but it was too cold and windy to hang around until low tide at 8:30 pm, besides a sneaker wave soaked my pants all the way up to my thighs and I needed to change and get warm.  I headed on south toward Brookings, where gas is suppose to be cheaper.  It was cheapest in Bandon, $3.61, but I didn’t think prices would change down the coast.  At Gold Beach it was $3.91.  Hoping it will be cheaper at Brookings as one gas station attendant told me it would be.  It was $3.83. (but once into CA, it rose to $4.22 gal.)

September 22

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Visited Arch Rock Viewpoint and then down the road I found a nice Wayside and decided to wait the afternoon out and see if the rain would stop.  Might be a good spot to beachcomb. Low tide tonight is 9:10 pm so by 7 pm or so, I should be able to walk the beach, but won’t unless the rain stops.  Tired of being wet and cold.  Not a good beachcombing spot after all.

Well, it’s not a Moose and I didn’t see it in Alaska, but I finally saw a big mammal in the wild, almost in the wild, it was a campground area. He was a young two-year old scrawny little guy.

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There is far too much on the Oregon Coast to do it justice in a Blog post, but I hope if you ever get the opportunity to make the drive, you will do it in your leisure… and take time to get off the beaten path.  If it is sandy beaches you like, they have plenty.  Lighthouses, lot of those.  Rainy days to stay inside, you betcha.  I’m into rocks, and now I have some secret agate-hunting spots to return to… one day when it isn’t raining.

Next up:  Central California Revisited

Monday, May 27, 2013

Differences… why we are who we are????

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This week, leaving my brother Jim and the best birthday
I’ve had in years, I headed north out of NV into ID. (Photo by Marla Laughlin)
 

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First thing I needed to do was find some wilderness and just decompress and I  met this guy!  I had a wonderful hike (see Nevada Hike page) and spent the night before heading on to Idaho.  Also see the Drive North.

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Maryann having breakfast in her van.  I don’t know how she bends her body in thirds like that.

I had met Maryann (M.A.) in Quartzsite in Jan. 2013 and we have become friends through Facebook since.  She wanted me to visit and I wanted to get to know her better since we seemed to share so many common interests.

Her van was in the shop when I arrived in town so I went to the Ford dealer to meet her and then on to get tea/coffee?  I called her to let her know I was at Ford but she was already walking up the street to the Coffee shop… so I picked her up.  We had a great chat, then went back to get her van.  They said the alternator was bad and ordered a new one, but the van would be o.k. to use for the weekend (ha ha).  We van camped in front of her friend’s home (which has the most beautiful urban garden I have ever seen).

Next day we drove north to the next town where her daughter lives… and I got treated to a hydro-massage (now there’s something you should not pass up if you get a chance to experience). I really enjoyed meeting her daughter, who is in between my two sons in age… by one year.  Beautiful young lady.

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Then we went back out to M.A.’s van and it would not start.  Great.  (I suddenly remembered why I hate leaving my van behind anywhere.)  A tow truck came, took us back to Hailey, ID, dropped me at my van (oh, thank heavens) and I followed them back to Ford.  M.A. and I then returned to her friend’s home for supper, and her ex joined us.  It was a nice evening, but I felt bushed even though I had not really exerted any energy that day. 

The van was fixed right away and we picked it up and headed out to an urban campground named Hayspur, which is adjacent to the Silver Creek Preserve.

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Very nice spot, surrounded by agricultural fields and a Nature Conservancy property (an area that was a favorite of Ernest Hemingway – Silver Creek Preserve).  Our plan was to kayak through the Conservancy the next day.  M.A. had never kayaked before and like me, has a cranky shoulder.  I assured her, if she tired of paddling, I could tow her. We set up camp at Hayspur Fish Hatchery (a free place to camp).  it is also listed on FreeCampsites.net.

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Five more of her friends joined us for a great evening of chatting, laughing, taking silly photos, and drinking a few beer.  Lovely evening.

M.A.’s friend lost her husband this week and early the next morning she was called to be by her side and she departed camp before I was up.  I really came to visit M.A., not kayak, and without her there, I felt the need to move on but I went out and drove the kayaking route, checking out put-in and take-out points.  There is a visitor center you are suppose to check in before kayaking.  It was not open… I was told, ‘cause I couldn’t even find it.  I didn’t have a map.  I didn’t have a shuttle. 

The Un-Paddle

I think I would have enjoyed this location for a nice easy paddle.  I headed out early to explore the route… and found frozen spray in the agricultural fields.  Neat.

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This would have been a fun paddle for me as it’s kind of a walk in Hemingway’s footstepsPage 2.

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A bench at Hemingway’s Monument.


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Met a beaver.

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Normally, I kayak a circuit and don’t need a shuttle, but the current was too fast for me to paddle upstream, so, I determined I really needed to just get back out into the wilderness, especially since this was Memorial Day weekend Friday and many other campers and kids and dogs were arriving.  By nightfall, the place would be thick with smoke, and screaming kids, and being in the middle of a bad migraine, I knew I must leave.

Ice Cave

On the way back south to Jackpot, I stopped to see the Shoshone Indian Ice Caves.  Here are slides for now.

Why? Why did I need wilderness??   Some people need other people and like having lots of other people around and are more comfortable urban van camping.  I like/need lots of wilderness around and only truly enjoy real wilderness camping.  After stopping to pick up my printer, which I had left in Twin Falls to be check out as to why it stopped printing (it can still scan),  I then headed back down to Jackpot, NV and then out into the wilderness the next morning.

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That night there was a full moon and I spent time talking to my sister in Alaska, beginning to plan my trip there.

Into the Wilderness, again.

Seen on the way to my 5/25 campsite:

I’ve been out here now for over 12 hours and have not seen one single person or vehicle.  Two antelope, a couple of swallows, I heard a crow, and there is a large mammal hole near the van, that I think is a badger’s (but I have not seen him yet).

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Opal Spring and rock outcroppings that contain the Opal,
and a local resident.

One of the things I was searching for out here was an opal digging spot.  I had a local hand-drawn map I found at a gas station, but I had no topo map of the area… so I can’t believe I actually found Opal Spring (there are no signs).  I collected a lot of rock… and waste flakes from Indian projectile point production.  I wanted to continue on this road to a place called “Snake Skin Agate” diggings, but… the road didn’t look 2-wheel drive friendly.  At the Spring, you drive across the little stream (I did)… and you have a short dry stretch of road, and then a bog.  Looks like people drive through it at times of the year… and you can see the road continues on the other side… but I walked a bit of it and decided only 4x4 should try it.  There’s another road around to the Snake Skin Agate spot and I will try it later. Right now, I’m content to sit right where I am until I get antsy. 

Last night I returned on the road I came in on, about 1 mile to a nice level spot.  As I was trying to go to sleep… with a migraine and sinus headache, I noticed ringing in my right ear.  Pretty sure it’s not a new thing, just that I’ve just been in places with so much noise, I couldn’t hear it.  But last night, in the dead silence of this spot… it seemed very loud.  I guess I had heard it before, but thought it was my inverter, my solar controller, or my 12 volt refrigerator…. and never considered it was my ear!  My son has really bad tinnitis in his ears and it was so bad he had to take a leave of absence from work to deal with it emotionally and physically. 

But this morning, I woke and it was gone.  I laid in bed a long time wondering why it was so bad last night and so quiet this morning… and I conclude it was stress.  Stress?  From what?  I’m retired, doing what I want to do and in my own time.  Then it must be just being in cities, in towns, around people, cars, trucks, diesel fumes, car fumes, sounds of people, vehicle doors opening and closing, traffic, etc. I am not sure all of us were meant to live that way.  But here in the wilderness, I am noticing lots of differences.  Not just in my right ear.

First difference I noticed yesterday was SOUND, or lack thereof (an occasional airplane is all).  It was unnerving to begin with… but I’m quickly adjusting.  Second difference I noticed (maybe too much information here) was my bladder calming down and my kidneys working better.  Who would have thought?  Third difference I noticed as I prepared breakfast was the speed of preparation (or rather the slowness of it)… and how I was taking time to decide what to eat and how to fix it… and I was eating slowly and chewing more and enjoying the whole process, something that is very different from my normal style (quickest, easiest, fastest). 

I really became aware today for the first time, of how truly different I feel both mentally and physically by being in the wilderness and away from civilization (people, dogs, cars, campers, fumes, etc. and so forth).  Sure, most people can get the Mental part of that, but the impact and difference on me Physically is astounding.  O.K. I mentioned the bladder… and I don’t know why it’s better.  I’ve been on Detrol LA for years but went off of it a couple months ago… and have been doing pretty well, until I spent too much time in cities and drinking too many sodas.  And I guess there really is a “stress incontinence”  but I didn’t think it was caused by mental stress, just the physiological stress.

I used to be on all kinds of medicines, for bladder, stomach, headaches, allergies, nerves, inflammation, blood pressure, what’s left?  But now, the last medicine I’m trying to get off of is Prilosec.  I keep trying, and keep getting a really angry gut – the kind that makes you feel that you will surely die.  I realize I  need to completely change my eating habits (no fast foods, etc.) but that seems nearly impossible when I drive past those places all the time.  The difference out here in the wilderness is that there are no Golden Arches.

And headaches… I have suffered with bad headaches for the past couple of weeks.  That is different as mostly the past few years I seldom get a migraine – which I have suffered from since childhood.  But the past few days it has been pretty bad.  I decided last night I’d take whatever meds I needed to take to be out of pain and get some sleep.   I slept almost 12 hours and only had to get up to pee once (difference is usually up 4-5 times a night).  This morning, no headache.

So, it’s not just the COPD that I have to learn to manage, but I have to learn to listen to my whole body and how the stress of “civilized” living negatively impacts me.  We all need to listen to our bodies more.  Someone told me they are afraid of the openness of the wilderness and it would probably negatively effect them to do what I am doing now.  I accept those differences in other people.  Right now I have a 360 degree view of wilderness.  Only sign of civilization is a fence and cattle guard.  To me, this is wonderful, almost divine… but to others it is terrifying.  Why?  I think it is only their lack of experience in such settings.  I don’t feel I have anything to fear here (the badger has not even come out to say hello to me yet.)

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I do admit, yesterday I considered camping on top of a ridge, a knoll, but it got very windy and wind is the one thing that really causes me anxiety (one only has to think about the recent storms in the Midwest to understand that)… and being the highest point around… there would be lightening to consider as well.  So, I got down off the hill and back into the valley.  The view is really just as amazing down here.  Jackpot has an elevation of 5,217 feet, and the mountains surrounding me range from 7,295-8,299 feet.  Elevation doesn’t seem to bother my COPD like it does some others (although I wondered while I was up on that ridge if it was making the headache worse). Could be a difference of 2,000 ft. from where I ended up for the night.  Just recently heard on radio if you take Ibuprofen before ascending to these high elevations, it can help prevent altitude sickness.

There’s another difference, I can breath better out here today, and the incessant dripping nose has stopped dripping.  Oh, thank God.

I don’t know how one person can be so different from another.  I don’t know how long I will be here… a day, or two, or until I run out of water or food? I like living in the NOW and not planning my next move.  I don’t even have cell or internet service here, so this won’t be posted until I go “into civilization.”  It doesn’t matter… I’m just going to enjoy all the marvelous differences. If I had a legacy to leave everyone, it would be “Do not fear the DIFFERENT but embrace it and enjoy all the new things there are to learn about your world and yourself.”

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Another adventure heading my way, clouds are forming and are dark.  It might rain.  If it does, I won’t be able to leave… this road is not 2-wheel drive friendly if it is wet.  OK… my “don’t pen me in” panic button is on alert… but this too, I will deal with.  I have all I need to survive for even a couple weeks or more.  I’m O.K. and people who get my SPOT notices will get one nightly, showing my exact location.

Update: I left Friday to go into the wilderness. Saw no vehicles going 25 miles into the wild. Next day or two, I saw none. Then I saw two 4x4s with a couple each in one. They told me where I was on my little map... so I was on track getting to where I wanted to be. Didn't see another human until I came out of the wilderness this afternoon and 9 miles before I reached the highway again, I saw a truck with a guy in it. Didn't see any houses that whole time until 4 miles from the highway. I'm talking about 50 miles of wilderness driving... on some really bad roads... with rain threatening tonight, I needed to get out while I could. (The Panic Button won out.) Would not have minded staying there a week or two, but only if it was my choice. With rain coming in, I might have been trapped... and I'm not good at that.  Back in Jackpot, NV tonight (5/27/13).

Who is Swankie?

My photo
Anywhere, USA, Full-Time USA traveler, United States
In 2006, I was shopping for a wheelchair. By 2007, I had new knees, better health and by 2008 a kayak. In Aug 2013, I kayaked my 49th state, Alaska, at the Holgate Glacier and in May 2014, I kayaked Hawaii, my 50th state, to celebrate my 70th Birthday and the finale to the wonderful adventure of Kayaking America. Next up... Re-kayaking southwestern states.

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